Sweet Pets

Okay, most people are not informed enough to make a good decision when buying a bird cage. That’s really not good, because if you’re buying a good quality cage it isn’t going to be cheap, and if you are paying a decent amount of money, you need to get the best product you can get for that money!

Knowing this, I have created the article: “7 Things To Know When Shopping Bird Cages”

1. Is the bird cage you are considering made of materials that are safe for your feathered friend?

Have you thought about the toxin levels of minerals like Zinc & Lead in the cage you are considering? This should be your #1 priority when looking for a bird cage. This is the first question to ask, and if you can’t get a good answer, then move on. And this is the reason some cages are priced so much lower than others. Powder-coating on regular powder-coated cages has Zinc and/or Lead in it, that’s a fact, but good manufacturers have taken the time to discuss this with vets and other experts to determine a safe level for these minerals and the top manufacturers demand that their cages are manufactured in a way that stays inside of these standards!

2. Is the bird cage you’re considering large enough to keep your bird safe, content, and healthy?

This is a tricky dilemma when shopping for a bird cage, but here is the general rule of thumb; the bigger the better, as long as the bar spacing isn’t too wide. So what is too wide of a bar spacing? Basically, you don’t want your bird to be capable of putting it’s head between the bars, because this can cause injuries or even death to your bird. But you also need to keep in mind that the bigger the cage the better because many studies have shown that the larger the cage, the healthier the bird. For a great chart that shows you what bar spacing & cage size is right for your bird click here. Do keep in mind that all bird’s are not the same. Even bird’s of the same species can be quite different sizes (for example, a mini Conure might fall into the Small Category & a regular-size Conure might fit into the Medium Category).

3. What is the “ease of cleaning” factor on the cage you’re considering?

People constantly overlook this when shopping bird cages, but this is arguably the most important thing to consider (beyond the toxin levels in powder-coated cages). Let me explain why; when a cage is fairly easy to clean, it not only cuts down on the amount of time you spend cleaning, it also extends the life of your cage. If your cage is an extreme pain to clean and it takes many hours you will put off cleaning it for longer amounts of time and this will drastically reduce the life of your cage (especially a powder-coated bird cage). Bird droppings can become very erosive, and the longer they sit on your cage, the more damage can occur. Even the best brand name cages will only last 3-4 years if not appropriately taken care of. But on the other hand, a carefully cared for, high quality powder-coated bird cage can last 10+ years. So what makes a cage simple to clean? The #1 thing to watch for is a cage that is sturdy, but can be broken down in a matter of 2 minutes or less, without the need for any tools. All of the top brand name bird cages have this feature. Even if you don’t need to break your cage all the way down, it’s handy to be able to pull a portion of the cage off to clean it without having to get out the tools. Good quality cages literally snap in & out of place without the need for any tools at all!

4. Do not buy a bird cage to fit into a tight spot in your house!

And here’s why; when you decide to squeeze a cage into a specific place in your house this almost always takes away from the well-being of your bird! Let me explain; birds are a lot like us, they want space, they want sunlight, they want to look around. I recommend getting a cage with wheels so you can move your bird from place to place and give them a change of scenery.

5. Does your cage stimulate your bird like it should?

The top two ways to give your bird stimulation on a daily basis are: toy hooks & playtops. There’s no need to explain why toy hooks are stimulating, they just are! But the reason I’m so high of removable playtops is because of the fact that they can be pulled off your bird’s cage and set in a spot that’s away from the cage. This is just good for your bird. It not only gives the bird a change in scenery, it greatly encourages your bird to be active and possibly get some sunlight too.

6. What is the quality level of the materials used in the cage you are considering?

Avoid hollow bars! Especially if you’re getting a medium to large bird. Any decent sized bird will bend or possibly chew through a hollow cage bar. If you’re looking at a quality cage it will be constructed of steel (powder-coated ones should have steel underneath the powder-coat and stainless steel cages need to be 100% stainless steel, not plated or hollow) or iron. There is no such thing as a perfectly manufactured cage, but there is a huge difference between the quality levels. Respectable companies will include decent warranties against defects and they’ll also insure your cage against possible damages when shipping it to you. And since there isn’t a perfectly manufactured cage, you need to buy from a company that’ll stand behind their product. Do not buy a generic bird cage, it will most likely come without a manual, without a tech support phone number, and without a decent warranty. A respectable company will hurry to make things right if you happen to have a problem.

7. Functionality, Features, and great attention to detail!

First time bird cage buyers typically aren’t the type that worry about features, functionality, and attention to detail. They’ve never owned a bird cage and they don’t know what to look for in a cage. Bird cages are the type of thing that “you don’t go cheap twice”. If you go cheap once, you’ll be sure to never do that again! Here is a feature that is often overlooked: bird-proof door locks. You should get a cage that your bird can’t escape from. Just think about what would happen if your bird escaped & was free the entire day while you’re out! Here’s one other practical feature that you will fall in love with; stainless steel bowls that are only accessible from outside the cage. This is a must have if your bird is a “biter”.

And there it is! You’re now more informed about bird cages than 99% of the shoppers out there trying to decide which one to get. You’re now armed with the education you really should have to make an educated buying decision!

Please research bird cages more by visiting Everything Birds and looking at the content that’s available there for their visitors.

About the Author: Dave Hermansen - An exotic bird lover & expert.

Having a pet rabbit can be such a rewarding experience. But with all the breeds, sizes and colors, how do you select the rabbit that is just right for you? This article will help you select that perfect rabbit.

Choosing the right rabbit for you and your family can be a very exciting process. There are currently over 40 recognized breeds of rabbits. Many of the breeds have multiple varieties and colors. Rabbits range in size from 2 pounds to over 10 pounds. So the choices are very abundant.

Many breeders give different answers regarding the preferred gender for a pet rabbit. This is compounded by the individual temperament of the rabbit. Often a doe (girl rabbit) that is not spayed, can become territorial was she reaches maturity. She may nip at you when reaching for her or even her food or water dishes. Some does will eliminate that aggression when a familiar face does the feeding on a daily basis. Some does we’ve found to be non-aggressive, and yet others can become territorial towards everybody, but that is very rare. If you do not plan to breed your rabbit, and you want a doe, it is best to have her spayed to help reduce the chances that she may protect her den.

Bucks present a different problem all together. Bucks generally are not aggressive. However, spraying can be a problem. When the buck reaches maturity he may start to spray his urine everywhere to let the whole world know he is ready for a mate. Again, not all bucks will do this, and typically the ones that do, will only do so for a short period of time. This problem can be eliminated by having the buck neutered.

Grooming is another consideration. The wool breeds such as angoras and jersey woolies require extra work in grooming. All rabbits need a good routine of grooming by their caretaker, but the wool breeds require more time because of the nature of their fur type.

The best way to see and find out about rabbits is to attend a rabbit show. At the rabbit show you will find many breeders and most of the breeds of rabbits. To find a show near you visit our calendar page and search for a show in your state.

I would not recommend buying a rabbit without first seeing it, nor would I recommend purchasing a rabbit from a pet store. It would be in your best interest to find a breeder in your area of the breed you think you would like. Visit with that breeder. See what the conditions are in the barn. Ask if you can hold a rabbit. Watch the rabbit’s reaction to their cage being opened. Rabbits that love attention, will immediately come to the door, some will even make happy grunting type noises. Other rabbits will immediately go to the back of the cage. If a rabbit moves to the back its probably not a good rabbit for you.

Most of all have fun. Enjoy your search for that perfect rabbit. There are many sizes colors and choices and finding the fit for you can be time consuming but will be very rewarding in the end.

About the Author: Rob Usakowski is owner of Three Little Ladies Rabbitry which is run by his wife Cathie and their three daughters. Visit their site Three Little Ladies Holland Lops for lots of rabbit raising information for both pet owners and breeders alike.