Good grooming begins at home. Start the pups first session about 20 minutes after a meal. The puppy will settle down at this time and is possibly a bit sleepy. Use a soft brush and comb. Don’t be surprised if the puppy wiggles about. Don’t give in when this happens, just slow your hand motions and when he stops fussing, praise him and quit for a while, returning to it later. If there are still problems after a few sessions consult with a groomer or vet about handling techniques. If you bathe the puppy at home, be sure there are no knots in the hair coat before you begin. Knots tighten as they dry making them more difficult to remove. If you find knots that are too tough to remove gently with a comb, visit your groomer. Do not use scissors to cut the knot out- a tight knot can actually pull skin into the knot and you might cut the skin. During these sessions, gently handle the feet, toes, ears and tail areas. The puppy will accept this handling as bonding and allow it as a matter of course from the groomer.

When the puppy has had its second set of immunizations, make the first grooming appointment. (Many groomers require the pup to have had their shots before handling- they are concerned with your pets health as well as that of other customers pets.) The younger the grooming process begins, the easier it is for everyone involved.

Schedule your first few appointments 2 to 3 weeks apart, then lengthen the time between grooms gradually. Plan a couple of short “get acquainted” visits before the first grooming, meeting with the groomer and getting some treats for the puppy. On the first visit the groomer may choose to only bathe, brush and trim the face, feet and rear of the pup, along with cleaning ears and trimming nails. Many groomers may not do a full haircut at this time- that can be too much for the pet to accept comfortably. Expect the puppy to stay about 4 hours. Your pet won’t be worked on this whole time, but allows for services to be performed in phases and is long enough to familiarize him with the surroundings. If your groomer attaches bows be sure to remove it and re-attach it every 2 or 3 days to ensure that it doesn’t become knotted in the hair. Bandanas should be removed when the puppy is put in a crate or left alone for long periods.

Remember- all pets (just like their human friends) are individuals and may deviate from these plans just a bit, but following these guidelines will go a long way towards your pets health and happiness. If you have questions about your puppies first groom or anything regarding your pets care, please check our website http://www.carolsbows.com

About the Author: Carol is a Nationally Certified Master Groomer, certified by the National Dog Groomers Association of America, Inc. A pet groomer since 1993, she attained National Certification in 2002. To visit her website, click http://www.carolsbows.com. Here you will find her selection of dog bows, dog collar charms and further articles on care for your pet.

The best way to understand and find success with house training is to use the dog’s own nature to help you.

Dogs are, by instinct, very clean animals. They would rather not soil any areas where they normally sleep or eat. Dogs are also creatures of habit — they like to know where they’re supposed to go urinate and defecate. If the dog is taught to eliminate on gravel or concrete, they will tend to look for either of those surfaces to do so. If they’re taught to eliminate on grass or dirt, that’s where they will choose. Use these habits to your advantage.

Setting up the training area

This is the first step. Make sure the area you choose is small and confined. A bathroom works for this, or a place in a kitchen or garage also work well. Remember that crate training works well for puppies or small dogs, but for the larger animals, the crate is too confining.

You need to spend some time with this aspect of the training. You need to play with your dog in this area, and this is also where the dog will be taught to sleep and eat. Put together a special bed. This can be something you make up with items around the house, or you can go to the store and purchase a bed. Don’t worry of your dog eliminates in this area at first. Once they figure out that this is where the sleep and eat, they’ll stop eliminating there.

Once your dog realizes that the bed is for sleeping, you can begin to move it around the house. But, only when you’re there. When you’re not, put the bed back in the training area.

Setting up the toilet area

Now you need to determine where the toilet area is going to be located. Presumably, this will be outside the house. Wherever it is, it has to a place that the dog can go to whenever it needs to go. You need to go there with your dog so you can give the appropriate rewards for good behavior.

Establish a set feeding schedule for your dog. If the dog is in the habit of being fed at certain times, the natural process of elimination will also begin to occur at certain times. Once you learn when those times relate to the eating times, it will become much easier for you to guide the dog to the established toilet area.

Don’t forget to make sure your dog has ready access to the toilet area. That way mistakes aren’t as likely to occur.

Continuing the house training process

Once your dog is in the habit of eliminating in the toilet area and not in the sleeping/eating area, you can begin to extend the training area to the rest of the house. Do this slowly. Start by expanding to one additional room, and then gradually expand into other areas. Don’t expand into new areas until you’re sure your dog has control of its bladder and bowels. At first, do this only when you’re around. If you’re away, then put your dog back in the original training area.

Speeding up the process

If you have to move this process along more quickly, you can do so. Remember to proceed with caution, though. It’s better to go slowly than to have to try to retrain a dog later. If you’re going to try to speed things up, you will have to be there in order to reward your dog for successful eliminations. It is also important not to punish for mistakes. That will only confuse the dog and slow the process even further.

About the Author: Mark Bensen shares more of his dog knowledge at his informative site, http://www.wecould2.com/doggonit/